Kenzo Pre-Spring 2027: Clothes for Work and Play

The fashion gene seems to be closely linked to the ceramics gene, with the likes of Raf Simons, Jonathan Anderson, Matthieu Blazy and Andrew Gn among passionate collectors. Nigo, creative director of Kenzo, is another enthusiast. The Kyoto house of ceramicist Kawai Kanjiro ranks as his favorite museum in the world, and he hand-throws his own vessels in his spare time. His ceramics are among objects currently on display at the Nigo retrospective at London’s Design Museum, and his method of signing them inspired the stamped monogram treatments in his first pre-spring collection for Kenzo. Utility dressing — perhaps to wear in front of a kiln — comes to the fore, especially worker jackets, overshirts and double-knee pants, plus the Parisian and varsity references that have wafted through Nigo’s nearly five years at the Paris-based house. The starting point for the Japanese designer was discovering an archival “Kenzo Work & Play” label, which provided a neat framework for a collection that deftly balanced workwear, everyday casualwear and soft tailoring. While the brand took a few offbeat detours in recent years, Nigo seems to be shepherding it back to his wholesome, sure-handed interpretation of Americana and Ivy League style, flecked here and there with Japanese references, such as a kimono-inspired shirtdress or floral motifs. Denim predominates and looks terrific, from faded cardigan styles and breezy camp shirts to gutsier jeans jackets in railroad stripes. Striped poplin separates, cable-knit sweaters, puffer jackets and toggle coats signal that this collection straddles climates as well as on- and off-duty pursuits. Charlotte Coupé, who joined Kenzo as chief executive officer one year ago, said pre-collections are being introduced to serve two purposes. “Creatively, it gives us the opportunity to build additional narratives alongside the runway collections and expand the storytelling around the brand,” she told WWD. “From a product perspective, it allows us to offer a broader and more versatile range across categories, with pieces that feel maybe more immediate and easier to integrate into everyday wardrobes.” Light work, indeed.