‘Wheeling through vineyards and chateaux country’: an ebike tour of France’s Loire valley

As a fair-weather cyclist, I’ve never fancied a proper cycling holiday, but my partner, Toby, is a keen mountain biker. Our compromise was a self-guided ebike tour through the Loire valley with Cycling for Softies. Starting at Château du Rivau, a Renaissance beauty where Joan of Arc is said to have collected her horses, we enjoyed a glass of local rosé and explored the gardens before Quintin from Cycling for Softies arrived with our ebikes. Over three days, we cycled about 100 miles (160km) along the river, through vineyards, and to towns like Langeais and Azay-le-Rideau, stopping often to enjoy the scenery. The chateau, restored by Patricia and Éric Laigneau since 1992, hosts a contemporary art gallery with works by Pierre Ardouvin, Jeff Koons, and Sabine Pigalle. Tonight’s dinner was a candlelit feast in the Jardin Secret, led by chef Andrea Modesto, featuring stuffed courgette flowers, roast duck with cherries, and local cheeses, paired with a bottle of Chinon. The next morning, we cycled 27 miles through vineyards and past honeysuckle-draped farmhouses, joining the Loire à Vélo route. We stopped at Candes-Saint-Martin for a beer at La P’tite Vienne and explored its brocantes, fromageries, and wine caves. By late afternoon, we arrived at Fontevraud-l’Abbaye, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and stayed at L’Hôtel de Fontevraud L’Ermitage, a four-star hotel with a Michelin-starred restaurant. On the second day, we cycled 34 miles to Château d’Ussé, known for inspiring Charles Perrault’s Sleeping Beauty tale. We enjoyed a leisurely route past poplar trees and weeping willows, stopping for beers and long lunches. Our final day covered 37 miles, winding through medieval towns like Azay-le-Rideau and past apple and cherry orchards to Château de Villandry, featuring tiered geometric gardens restored by Joachim Carvallo.