Ireland's small but determined wine industry warming up

The Republic of Ireland is recognised as a wine-producing country by the European Commission. Traditionally, Irish drinks are associated with stout and whiskey, but a growing wine industry is emerging. A new winery near Slane in County Meath is the largest vineyard planting in Ireland, with 36,000 vines on 30 hectares. David Llewellyn, one of Ireland’s pioneers, started Lusca Vineyard in County Dublin in 2002, producing 1,500 to 2,000 bottles annually. He focuses on varieties like Rondo and Madeline Angevine, noting that only a few grape types thrive in Ireland’s climate. Comparisons to UK viticulture are noted as less viable due to Ireland’s extreme conditions, limiting traditional varieties like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Llewellyn mentors new winemakers, emphasizing the need for the right varieties and skills. Further south, David Dennison at Viking Winery in County Waterford plants 30 vines of Rondo and grows 14 varieties, including hybrids like Solaris. The winery is organic and disease-resistant, producing 2,500 to 4,500 bottles annually. Dennison highlights the potential of hybrids and the need for climate adaptation, noting frost and weather as key challenges. Climate change expert Prof. John Sweeney predicts viticulture will become viable as temperatures rise, though it may not spread quickly. Northern Ireland’s sandy soils could also become suitable. Both winemakers stress the importance of quality and authenticity, warning against 'fake Irish wine' and advocating for a structured growth of the industry.